Chairperson:  Nick Bennett 570-250-5003 or [email protected]
Co-Chairpersons:  Sam Smith Sr. 570-463-1627 & Shawn Smith 570-886-0836

Sunday, September 1, 2024 - 6:00 PM
Entry Fee - $75.00
​The Demolition Derby is designed as an unusual spectator attraction.  Every entrant is subject to the following rules and regulations in the interest of safety and equal competition.  Total responsibility for inspection of car and rule compliance is by the owner/driver. 
​Classes:
​Stock Compact                    Bone Stock                   80’s and Newer Full Size                    Run What You Bring (MILD) 
Premiums:  For all classes 
1st - $1,000                         2nd - $500                      3rd - $300
​Driver's Entry:
  1. Drivers must be at least 18 years of age and have proof of age
  2. Drivers must sign liability waiver to participate
  3. All drivers must supply their own car and set it up according to the rules. Entry is limited to 1 car per event
  4. Drivers must wear a SNELL or DOT approved helmet and some form of eye protection at all times while on the track. If you remove helmet, you will be disqualified.
  5. Drivers must wear a safety belt at all times while on the track. If you remove safety belt, you will be disqualified.
​Class Rules:
​Bone Stock:
​
  1. V8, V6 or 4cyl -American made stock hardtop automobiles and station wagons are allowed. excluding imperials
  2. Stripping-cars must be completely stripped (glass, fiberglass, plastic, AIRBAGS, chrome, interior, handles, latches etc. ((anything that is flammable or may come off and imbed into track)) NO ANTIFREEZE WATER ONLY IN COOLING SYSTEM Two windshield straps must be installed 2” above or below windshield line max (chain, #9 wire, fuel tank straps. Lighter material)
  3. This class is open to any year RWD or FWD v8 or v6(except the exclusions below) or fwd. v6 108” or larger wheel base. NO Imperials, Suicides,76 and older Cadillacs, Hearses, limos, ambulances, trucks, truck frames,4WD or AWD If you have any questions on vehicle selection please ask.
  4. NO welding other than what is stated
  5. Doors/hood/trunk- You may patch weld the driver door (3) 3x3x1/8” patches per vertical seam only. All other doors may be wired in 3 spots per vertical seam with up to 2 double strands of #9 wire. Hoods and trunk may have 6 spots total. (Your choice of location) Trunk may be cut in half. NO tucking. All door/trunk/hood wiring must be done sheet metal to sheet metal ONLY may not go to or around frame. Hood must have a 12”x12” hole cut over the carb.
  6. Battery- Move and securely mount battery to passenger floor 2 Batteries per car
  7. Fuel System-Move fuel tank to rear seat area (no plastic tanks) MUST MOUNT SECURELY All lines must be ran inside driver compartment and covered. Must be steel or high-pressure rubber. If Fuel injected or using electric fuel pump you must have a separate and clearly labeled shut off switch.
  8. SHIFTER, Pedals-Factory shifter or simple rod. factory pedals---NO AFTERMARKET
  9. NO AFTERMARKET OR FABRICATED PARTS (this includes cradles, protectors, braces, drive shafts, shifters, steering, tie rods, wheels, centers, bumpers, mounts or anything else that did not come factory to the car you are running)
  10. Bumper-Any unaltered OEM car bumper may be used. However, it must be bolted (3/8” MAX) on as it was from the factory and/or can be welded to the bracket or shock to prevent loss of bumper). Must remain in the factory location. No swapping/adding/altering of shocks or brackets. They must remain factory, in factory position and how they were from the showroom floor. NO WELDING other than what is specified. MUST BE CHAINED or WIRED to sheet metal to prevent them from falling on to the track. NO HARD NOSING
  11. Wheels and tires-Street or snow tires-DOT tires only. No ags or skids. Remove all wheel weights, Stock unaltered wheels!! NO protectors, NO centers, NO bead locks NO liquid or foam filling. NO Solid tires NO studded tires. NO rim only.
  12. Body-NO body creasing, no body mount, bolt or spacer modifications or relocations, wheel wells may be trimmed and rolled for clearance however may NOT be welded/bolted/glued back together.
  13. Engine/transmission- Engine swaps will be allowed. Must use stock OEM engine mounts. No lower cradles. You may run a homemade trans cooler without fan (ice box style). Must use factory OEM mounts for both engine and transmission only welding will be swapping engine mounts or altering transmission mount to make it work. Must use factory transmission crossmember and it must be bolted (NO WELDING). No engine chains Stacks will be allowed. Carb conversions of efi will be allowed. NO ALCOHOL.
  14. Rear-can swap makes. MUST BE 5 LUGS
  15. NO ADDED STEEL ANYWHERE
  16. Cage-A 4-point cage can be added inside drivers compartment for safety. May only weld sheet metal to sheet metal. 60” max length side bars 6” max, dash and seat bar 4” max. Must be 5” from firewall, floor and trans tunnel. Back bar may be no farther back than where the kick panel meets the rear seat. May use only Dash and seat bar however if doing so must have a 6”x6” plate where bars meet sheet metal so nothing can protrude out of side of car. (NO FUEL TANK PROTECTOR OR ROLL OVER BAR.)
  17. Brakes and Steering- Must have working brakes. Must be factory stock!! NO PINION BRAKES Factory unaltered steering!!! (Exclusion-you may remove rubber from joint at box and bolt or weld the factory flanges where rag was) no reinforcing of steering components.
  18. Suspension-Must be completely unaltered and factory. May stiffen shocks with pipe or use coil over shocks in the rear. No chain or plate over the A-arms or from the frame to the rear. Front must have some give
  19. FRAME-NO WELDING NO SWAPPING. NO PLATING. You may notch or dimple rear frame in (1) spot per rail no farther than 12” from end of rear frame (do not weld back together). No chaining or dimpling of humps. Nothing else can be done to frame whatsoever. NO fix it plates
  20. STOCK MEANS STOCK-if it doesn’t say directly above that you can do it…YOU CAN’T OR YOU WILL BE LOADED OR PUT INTO ANOTHER CLASS
  21. Rust--any and all rust repair you must send pictures and must be preapproved or you will not run
Stock Compact:
​
  1. Cars classified as compact (fwd or rwd) with a uni-body construction and that started life with a 4-cylinder gas engine will be allowed. 6-cylinder uni-body Front wheel drive. 108"-wheel base or less only for whole class Vehicle must remain factory other than the modifications specified below
  2. NO WELDING OTHER THAN WHAT IS STATED BELOW. NO EXCEPTIONS SPECIAL NOTE: PLASTIC BODY SATURNS MUST REMOVE ALL PLASTIC BODY PANELS... YOU MAY PUT SHEET METAL ON DRIVERS' DOOR ONLY
  3. No aftermarket parts (shifters, steering, pedals, coolers,etc)
  4. Stripping: All glass, chrome trim, locks and anything else that might become embedded in the track must be removed. TOTALLY CLEAN IT OUT INCLUDING GLASS. You MUST install two safety straps from the body area behind the hood no more than 2" below the windshield line and no more than 2” above windshield line to the roof of the car to keep the hood from coming backwards through the windshield area. Front WINDOW bars, straps are to be a thinner material that can easily be cut by the fire dept if there is an emergency situation. Gas tank strapping, chain or trunk rod are all good choices. NO angle iron or t-post will be allowed. Anything inside the car that is a fire hazard must be removed, including car interior, trunk pad and carpet... Driver door panel can be left in for safety of the driver, projecting latches, handles, etc. inside driver’s door must be removed. Remove brittle metal & fiberglass pieces’ front and back. A flash guard of some type MUST be installed covering the car firewall where large holes are produced after taking heaters and etc. out. Use light tin or some type of nonflammable material. Antifreeze must be removed and replaced with water.
  5. EXHAUST: May use stacks or if using under car it should be cut off at least 12” behind driver’s seat and be bent out towards the side of the vehicle, or straight up and down off of manifold. You may use an Electric fan with plastic or nylon blades only.
  6. BRAKES: Must be completely factory stock and in working order for safety purposes on the track.
  7. TRANSMISSION COOLERS: May be moved to the rear passenger area and must be totally leak free. All lines must be enclosed. no fan style coolers.
  8. TIRES AND WHEELS:  May use skids or Ags (NO STEEL TIRES ALLOWED NO RIMS ONLY) No foam filling or loading of tires is allowed. Tire inside a tire is allowed. Remove all wheel weights. No bead locking or protector style of any type rim allowed. No valve stem protectors. You may use the 6” wheel centers for bolt pattern changes
  9. Driver Protection: This is RECOMMENDED for all classes but not required: A 4 bar enclosure around the inside cab may be installed. One dash bar, one behind seat, one across each front door. All bars must be inside driver`s compartment. Door bars may run from dash to behind the farthest back portion of the seat where it meets the kick panel. Side bar MAXIMUM LENGTH 60”. Front bar must be at least 5 inches from center of firewall and floor including the transmission tunnel. Back bar may be no further back than 1 foot behind seat. All bars may be no larger than 6” diameter. A fifth bar may be used of same size material to run from front bar to back in center. Attaching to the car may only be done on the sides, NO mounting to the floor or roof. If you choose to use only front and back bar, mounting plates of ¼ “x 6”x12” may be used on the ends. Gussets may be used at all welded connections but can only be welded to the protection area. NOT to the car body itself. Nothing can come from floor or frame to cage whatsoever. Used for protection only not reinforcement. Improperly installed bars are a hazard to everyone... NO EXOSKELETONS…All bars will be placed WITHIN the sheet metal of the vehicle. Roll over bars (HALO) may not extend more than 6 inches above the roof line and may only be attached to the cage with two points of contact behind front seat not to the floor in any way. All bars must be within same guidelines as cage bars. Nothing can go from halo to dash bar, NO EXCEPTIONS.
  10. Hood: Must have a hood with a hole minimum of 12” x 12” cut over the carburetor in case of fire and be tied down after inspection with wire (6) spots total. Do not use chain or angle iron!
  11. GAS Tanks: Tanks may NOT be left in the vehicles stock location. OR A marine style or equivalent fuel cell (stock gas tanks can be used if properly moved, secured and covered), tank may be installed in the rear passenger compartment and fastened down securely. All electric fuel pumps require a separate power switch within driver’s reach. Switch must be labeled fuel pump shutoff. NO PLASTIC boat tanks will be allowed. Homemade fuel cells, MUST BE: 1. Sturdy, 2. Securely Mounted, 3. Entirely leak proof or you cannot run! Tank MUST be covered with a metal or heavy rubber shield!! NO EXCEPTIONS!!!
  12. Gas Tank Protectors: Can be used if running aftermarket tank. Protectors must attach to CAGE ONLY!!! Protector will be no larger than 24” outside and made of ¼ inch material. 8-inch gussets can be used on the protector. This is a FLOATING style protector. Bars may not go to the halo or frame. May not be welded or bolted to floor, must be 5"from all sheet metal
  13. FUEL LINES: Must be metal passing through the firewall and in the passenger compartment. ALL FUEL LINES MUST BE METAL LINE, OR HIGH-PRESSURE RUBBER FUEL LINE INSIDE THE VEHICLE. ALL FUEL LINES NEED TO BE COVERED, RAN INTO AN OLD GARDEN HOSE IS ACCEPTABLE
  14. BATTERIES: Are to be mounted solidly to car floor in the front passenger compartment with a rubber or plastic shield covering, batteries may also be mounted into passenger seat if secured, tight and covered. 2 batteries MAX per car
  15. DOORS: driver door can b1e welded (3) patches per vertical seam exterior only with 3”x3”x1/8”.  All other doors you are to use (3) spots per vertical seam of wire, cable, chain (5/16” max), and seat belts tied are all also acceptable for all doors. If ANY door comes open car is disqualified.
  16.  TRUNKS, HATCHES, TAILGATES: Even if vehicle is considered a 5 door the rear trunk, hatch or tailgate Must be tied securely with cable, chain (5/16” max), seatbelt, or wire ONLY (6 spots total)!
  17. ENGINE: NO Engine swaps may be done. ALL mounts must remain factory. You may add a chain to each mount 5/16" max. NO ENGINE CRADLES, DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS, TRANS BRACES or SLIDER DRIVESHAFTS. FRAMES: NO FRAME ALTERING OF ANY KIND ALLOWED!! Except you may notch rear frames but cannot pre-bend. NO Fix it plates. You may use an Electric fan with plastic or nylon blades only.
  18. Steering: All aspects Must remain stock and unaltered.
  19. BODY MOUNTS: NO BODY MOUNT MODIFICATIONS ALLOWED!
  20. BODY: Wheel wells may be trimmed for clearance however re-attachment should be no stronger than factory. you may remove or cut trunk lid.  Quarters and panels must remain in original position NO BODY CREASING, WEDGING OR CANOEING OF THE TRUNK ALLOWED. Front and rear Trailer hitches are to be completely removed. NO rear window bar
  21. SUSPENSION: NO SUSPENSION MODIFICATIONS ALLOWED! Must be free floating as it was from the factory. MUST BOUNCE. NO REENFORCING OR ALTERING OF STEERING OR SUSPENSION PARTS
  22. BUMPERS: MAY ONLY USE A FACTORY AUTOMOBILE BUMPER OR A PIECE OF 2”X4”X1/8” SQUARE TUBING WITH ENDS CAPPED and ¾” hole in each end. All bumpers may only extend from center of tire to center of tire nothing wider. No stuffing or seam welding of bumpers will be allowed, BUMPERS MUST HAVE INSPECTION HOLES ON ALL FOUR SIDES. Bumper maximum height 20" to bottom of bumper. Only welding will be from the bumper to the frame. Allowed (1) 4”x3”x1/4” plate per side for bumper mounting purposes only MUST CONNECT TO THE BUMPER or #9 wire (2 strands max) from the hood to the bumper. CAN NOT have both. If you use #9 wire it will count as a hood tie down. If you don’t weld the bumper, you can bolt it on the stock location using (½" bolt max)
  23. Rust repair: If rust damage is to be repaired in the floors and frame, prior approval must be made before ANYTHING will be passed. No double flooring or double framing. We will drill a hole if felt necessary.
  24. NO EXTRA ANYTHING ALLOWED No #9 Wire unless stated (Except to close hood doors and trunk).  Just because it isn't in the rules, it doesn't make it legal. All vehicles are to remain factory other than the modifications allowed and spelled out in each particular section. NOTHING MORE!! Anything found to be Illegal before and after the show can result in Disqualification from the event and forfeiture of the winnings.
80's and Newer:
​
  1. American made stock hard top automobiles and station wagons manufactured from the model year 1980 and newer ONLY are allowed. No four-wheel drives will be allowed.
  2. Antifreeze must be removed and replaced with water.
  3. HOOD: Must have stock hood with hole cut over carb in case of fire and must be tied down after inspection. You may use wire or 2”x2” angle iron max 4” long. (3) spots of per side MAX.  6 spots total. Must have a minimum of 12” x 12” hole over carb. Hood must be open for inspection.
  4. SHIFTERS: Any style may be used.
  5. BRAKES: Must be in working order for safety purposes on the track.
  6. PEDALS: Aftermarket pedals may be used, but can be attached to the floor only. They cannot be welded to the cage and cannot be bolted through the floor to the frame.
  7. STEERING: Any style column may be used. You may weld your tie rod sleeves to the tie rod. May use an aftermarket column (¾" MAX) NO ADDED MATERIAL. 03+ MUST keep all steering and suspension components for that car
  8. DOORS: Must be tied securely. Can use 5/16” chain, wire or (3) 3”x 3” x 1/8” patches on each vertical exterior seam may be welded. If the driver’s door comes open, you are disqualified. Drivers' door ONLY can be welded solid with 3” x 1/8" material or trunk rod.
  9. TRUNKS: Must use wire/chain or weld (6) spots total 3” x 3” x 1/8" No tuck, wedge or canoe. Must keep original shape
  10. FRAMES: NO TILTING OR PREBENDING. You may shorten in front of rad support ONLY but may not move rad support. Welding can only be used for the motor mounts if a cradle is used. Cradle cannot be welded directly to the cross member, and must have a rubber mount with a bolt. You may notch, or dimple rear frame notch cannot be welded no undercoating or painting of frames. You cannot chain or #9 wire the humps. No hump plates
  11. BODY MOUNTS: Only 4 extra 1/2" maximum with washers that are free floating maximum size is 1/4” by 5".   All other body mounts must remain in the factory position. Body spacers may remain factory (if they do no altering to spacer or internal sleeve) or you can replace with hockey pucks must have minimum of 1” space between body and frame. May replace all body bolts with ½ inch bolts MAX. The very front spacer ONLY may be replaced with a steel spacer up to 2” hollow round or 2”x 2” hollow square material maximum of 4” long, can be welded to the frame ONLY. 
  12. BODY: Wheel wells may be trimmed for clearance however re-attachment should be no stronger than factory. You may use up to (5) 3/8” bolts per side to re-attach. Quarters and panels must remain in original position. NO CREASING, CANOEING, OR WEDGING.
  13. ENIGINE AND TRANSMISSION: Swaps between manufacturers is ok. Factory lower engine mount must be used. Mount must be bolted or welded to k member.  A lower engine cradle is allowed with a maximum thickness of 1/2” but CANNOT strengthen the frame in any way front plate is ok.  (A smith metal works cradle or any similar cradles are NOT allowed.) Factory trans cross member must be used. You may use a 4” long piece on 3”x3” angle iron welded to frame on each side to move and bolt trans cross member farther back when doing an engine/trans swap.  This can be no farther than 12” from the factory mount and cross member must be bolted not welded to tabs.  You also must use a factory style transmission mount from trans to cross member.  Cross member may be altered at mounting point to allow other manufacturer trans to attach in factory manner.  NO PULLEY PROTECTOR, NO DP, NO mid plate NO CARB PROTECTOR. NO BRACES. NO SLIDERS NO STEEL BELL NO STEEL TAIL
  14. SUSPENSION: You may lock suspension for ride height purposes.  You may use up to 1” all thread in place of shocks in rear can be in factory location or in the center of the spring (going up and down-not x across).  You can use pipe over the shocks to lock ride height. You may swap rear ends.  Rears must be out of a car (no 8 lug). If car is originally leaf sprung, you may use 2 extra clamps per side 2" wide 3/16" thick two 3/8” bolts each. Front Sway bar-may be removed, or you can remove rubber bushings and bolt solid to both frame and control arms, but it may NOT be welded to engine cradle or frame. Watts control arm conversions may be used, MUST use stock control arms. You may lock front suspension with torsion adjustment (if applicable), (2) pieces of 2”x2”x1/4” (per side) welded from A arm to frame or chain going over top of a-arm welded to frame (5/16” max).  Can only be welded by 2 links on frame each end.
  15. BUMPERS: maximum height is 20" to bottom of bumper.  You may use any factory automobile bumper you may load bumper but all work must be done on the inside of the bumper only and it must appear stock. You may seam weld and may use a 1/4" plate to back of bumper to support or stiffen.  Homemade bumpers will be allowed built from FLAT, HOLLOW type steel 1/4"thick x 4” deep x 8” high no wider than vehicle width base bumper must be capped on the ends no sharp edges you may stack 2 pieces together from top to bottom to make height dimensional. Homemade bumpers can have 6” point measuring from the very back of the bumper, anything beyond 6” will be cut.  NO EXCEPTIONS
  16. BUMPER MOUNTING: Bumper may be welded to stock mount brackets for that particular vehicle, NO EXCEPTIONS and shock brackets welded only to prevent collapse. Brackets must be attached to frame with the factory mounting method OR you may weld bumper directly to frame with ¼” material boxed as far as 4” behind rad support, however if you choose that method all other mounts and brackets must be removed. No homemade shocks, no extending of factory shocks, or brackets. NO PLATING. Cars without bumpers must have no projecting mounts or frame projections, bumperettes must be removed. Bumper bracket and mount welding must not run go over 4" behind rad support.  All bumper mounting must be EXTERNAL only.  Nothing can be done inside of frame.
  17. BATTERIES: 2 batteries max per car. You may mount your battery box to the cage. Or securely to the passenger floor. May also put them in your seat but must be secure and safe.
  18. Gas Tank Protectors: Protectors must attach to CAGE ONLY!!! Protector will be no larger than 24” outside and made of ¼ inch material. 8-inch gussets can be used on the protector. This is a FLOATING style protector. Bars may not go to the halo or frame. May not be welded or bolted to floor, must be 5"from all sheet metal.
  19. Cage:  A 4-point enclosure around the inside cab may be installed. One dash bar, one behind seat, one across each front door. All bars must be inside driver`s compartment. Door bars may run from dash to behind the farthest back portion of the seat where it meets the kick panel. Side bar MAXIMUM LENGTH 60”. Front bar must be at least 5 inches from center of firewall and floor including the transmission tunnel. Back bar may be no further back than 1 foot behind seat. All bars may be no larger than 6” diameter. A fifth bar may be used of same size material to run from front bar to back in center for shifters, switch box etc. Attaching to the car may only be done on the sides, NO mounting to the floor or roof. If you choose to use only front and back bar, mounting plates of ¼ “x 6”x12” may be used on the ends. 6” Gussets may be used at all welded connections but can only be welded to the protection area. NOT to the car body itself. Nothing can come from floor or frame to cage whatsoever. Used for protection only not reinforcement. NO EXOSKELETONS…All bars will be placed WITHIN the sheet metal of the vehicle NOT in the doors. Roll over bars (HALO) may not extend more than 6 inches above the roof line and may only be attached to the cage with two points of contact behind front seat not to the floor in any way can also be stitch welded to the roof in (3) 6” welds NO extra bars can come from the halo to the roof or doors. All bars must be within same guidelines as cage bars. Nothing can go from halo to dash bar, NO EXCEPTIONS.
  20. TRANSMISSION COOLERS: May be moved to the rear passenger area and must be totally leak free. All lines must be enclosed. Fan style coolers are allowed.
  21. Fix it plates: May have 4 total fix it plates on pre run cars only!!! Plates and welds must NOT touch (1/4" gap between)
  22. Rust repair: If rust damage is to be repaired in the floors and frame, prior approval must be made before ANYTHING will be passed. No double flooring or double framing.
Run What You Bring (MILD):
  1. Limited Weld-Full-size cars: American made stock hard top automobiles and station wagons are allowed. NO Imperials no four-wheel drives will be allowed
  2. Stripping: All glass, chrome trim, locks and anything else that might become embedded in the track must be removed. TOTALLY CLEAN IT OUT INCLUDING GLASS. Anything inside the car that is a fire hazard must be removed, including car interior, trunk pad and carpet... Driver door panel can be left in for safety of the driver, projecting latches, handles, etc. inside driver’s door must be removed. Remove brittle metal & fiberglass pieces’ front and back.
  3. Antifreeze must be removed and replaced with water.
  4. EXHAUST: May use stacks or if using under car it should be cut off at least 12” behind driver’s seat and be bent out towards the side of the vehicle, or straight up and down off of manifold.
  5. BRAKES: Must be in working order for safety purposes on the track.
  6. TRANSMISSION COOLERS: May be moved to the rear passenger area and must be totally leak free. All lines must be enclosed.  Electric plastic fans with shroud will be allowed.  A cover or splash shield between cooler and driver is recommended
  7. TIRES AND WHEELS:  ANY style RUBBER tire is allowed (NO STEEL TIRES ALLOWED NO RIMS ONLY) No liquid filling of tires is allowed.  Tire inside a tire is allowed.   Remove all wheel weights. NO solids. No full centers 6” centers only
  8. NO REINFORCEMENT will be allowed except as stated.  Front and rear Trailer hitches are to be completely removed.
  9. Rear Window bar- 6"x6" mounting plates 2”x2” bar can only be welded on to first 4" of roof.  must be centered over the trunk/speaker deck seam only cannot be attached to anything else.  Must be 1” space minimum between rear window bar and tank protector!
  10. Front Window bar- may be 2”x2” running from halo to dash bar.  May NOT be in front of Dash bar.  May be welded to the first 4” of the roof. Or you may put 2 smaller bars can weld to the first 4” of the roof and area behind the hood no more than 4" below the windshield line
  11. Rust repair: If rust damage is to be repaired in the floors and frame, prior approval must be made before ANYTHING will be passed. No double flooring or double framing.
  12. Driver Protection:  A 4 bar enclosure around the inside cab may be installed.  One dash bar, one behind seat, one across each front door. All bars must be inside driver`s compartment.  Side bar MAX LENGTH 60”. Front bar must be at least 5 inches from center of firewall and floor including the transmission tunnel. Back bar may be no further back than 1 foot behind seat.  All bars may be no larger than 4” diameter, except side bars may use up to 6” c- channel or 2”x6” for flat mounting.  A fifth bar may be used of same size material to run from front bar to back bar to use to support shifters and switches and battery box if you decide to mount it to the cage.  Attaching to the car may only be done on the sides, NO mounting to the floor or roof. 8” Gussets may be used at all welded connections but can only be welded to the protection area. NOT to the car body itself.   Used for protection only not reinforcement.  NO EXOSKELETONS…All bars will be placed WITHIN the sheet metal of the vehicle. 
  13. Roll over bars (HALO) may not extend more than 6 inches above the roof line and may only be attached to the cage with two points of contact behind front seat not to the floor in any way. All bars must be within same guidelines as cage bars. NO EXCEPTIONS. 
  14. Hood: You may use wire or 2” X 2” angle iron 8 spots total.  If using angle, it can be a max 4” long to hold hood down MUST have a 12”x12” holed over carb in case of a fire.  If using all thread as a radiator support bolt it may come through the hood in the two front spots ONLY and counts as 2 tie downs!! HOOD MUST BE OPENED FOR INSPECTION
  15. Doors: Must be welded and or tied securely with cable or chain. Driver door may be welded solid with 3” x 1/8” material. All other doors may have (6) total spots per door may use 3” x 3” 1/8” patches or trunk rod
  16. GAS TANKS: ALL tanks are to be removed from the vehicles stock location, NO EXCEPTIONS!!!!   A marine style or equivalent fuel cell tank shall be installed in the rear passenger compartment and fastened down securely. All electric fuel pumps require a separate power switch within driver’s reach. Switch must be labeled fuel pump shutoff. NO PLASTIC boat tanks will be allowed. Homemade fuel cells, MUST BE: 1. Sturdy, 2. Securely Mounted, 3. Entirely leak proof or you cannot run!
  17. Gas Tank Protectors: Can be used. Protectors must attach to back bar of CAGE ONLY!!!  Protector will be no larger than 24” on the outside. 8-inch gussets can be used on the protector.  You may run one bar per side up to 2" diameter per side to the halo.  May touch floor but may not be welded or bolted to floor, frame or sheet metal NOT PRESSURED IN
  18. FUEL LINES: Must be metal passing through the firewall and in the passenger compartment. ALL FUEL LINES MUST BE METAL LINE, OR HIGH-PRESSURE RUBBER FUEL LINE INSIDE THE VEHICLE. ALL FUEL LINES NEED TO BE COVERED, RAN INTO AN OLD GARDEN HOSE IS ACCEPTABLE
  19. BATTERIES: Are to be mounted solidly to car floor in the front passenger compartment with a rubber or plastic shield covering, batteries may also be mounted into passenger seat if secured and tight or metal box mounted to cage. May also be attached to the cage securely!
  20. ENGINE: Swaps may be done; you may use engine cradle (5/8” maximum thickness). May have a pulley protector but cannot touch frame, cross member or sway bar.  Trans crossmember may be altered to allow other make engines and transmissions to be installed you may use a 4” long piece of 3”x3” angle iron welded to frame on each side no more than 12” from factory location as the crossmember mount.  You may use homemade crossmember no larger than 2”x2” hollow round or square material Slider drive shafts are ok.
  21. FRAMES: Tilting frames and pre-bending will be allowed. ONE hot tilt only! Or ONE cold tilt ONLY! NO ADDED MATERIAL. Frame changes allowed make to make only (i.e. Chrysler to Chrysler, etc.)  Front frame may be shortened up to core support Core Support must remain in stock location No shortening between firewall and radiator support. Do not fill holes or make new seams. You may notch or dimple rear section of frame, notch must NOT be welded together, no undercoating or painting frames. No sub frame connectors. NO welding on the inside of the frame whatsoever. NO plating, pinning or stuffing allowed NO kickers.
  22. Fix it plates on pre-ran cars may only be a maximum of 4”x 6”x 1/4”. Cars that have ran multiple shows may have 4 total. plates and welds must NOT touch (1/4" gap between).  Must be mounted flat on outside of frame. No pinning of frames with Fix it Plates!!
  23. SUSPENSION: Rear- Maximum 5 clamps per side, 2" wide 3/16" thick, two 3/8 bolts per clamp for factory leaf sprung cars. Watts link conversions are acceptable.  If doing so replacement (rear)control arms may be constructed of 2”x3”x1/4” hollow tubing ONLY.  You may swap rears between manufacturers must be passenger car or truck. No more than 8 lugs.
  24. Front-Sway bar-may be removed, or you can remove rubber bushings and bolt to both frame and control arms, but it may NOT be welded or bolted to engine cradle or pulley protector in any way.  20” to bottom of bumper MAX 15” Minimum.   You may lock suspension to achieve proper ride height doing this may not strengthen frame in any way. Using chain or 2” x 3” x ¼" flat plate.
  25. Hump plates:  24” of plate allowed ¼ inch thick maximum material and can be no wider than the width of the frame, MUST BE CENTERED OVER AXLE.
  26. Steering: Any style column may be used. You may weld your tie rod sleeves to the tie rod or use small angle or rebar (½" thick max) to weld tie rod to sleeve.
  27. BODY MOUNTS: all body mounts must remain in factory position.  Only 4 extra ½" maximum body to frame bolts with washers that are free floating maximum size is 3/16th by 5-inch diameter. You may change original hardware to 5/8” diameter bolts; you may add hockey pucks.  A maximum of 8” body spacing will be allowed at radiator support constructed using hockey pucks or a maximum of 2” hollow tubing and threaded rod or bolts, may use 2 hockey pucks at the firewall.  no exceptions. DO NOT relocate factory frame tabs.  Bolts and threaded rod (1” MAX) may go thru the hood at the Rad support mounts.
  28. BODY: Wheel wells may be trimmed for clearance however re-attachment should be no stronger than factory. You may use (5) bolts per side (3/8” or smaller) to go from outer quarter around wheel opening to inner wheel well.  I you may reskin driver's door only, up to 1/4" thick may not exceed where the 3" door weld strapping is. 
  29. TRUNKS, HATCHES, TRUNK: may be tucked but not welded to floor.  You may body crease   NO WEDGING OR CANOEING!! Quarter panels must be vertical and in original location.  May be patch welded or use wire/chain.  a 10x10 inspection hole is needed for inspection. Patches 3” x 3” x 1/8” thickness (8) spots total.
  30. Bumpers:  You may load Factory bumpers (all work must be done on the inside and it MUST APPEAR FACTORY FROM OUTSIDE) you may seam weld and you may use a 6” x 6” 1/4" plate on back of bumper for mounting purposes ONLY. Homemade bumpers will be allowed, built from FLAT HOLLOW type steel 1/4" thick x 4” deep x 8” high no wider than vehicle width. You may NOT add a point to a homemade bumper!  Purchase bumpers dec,ski,smw wtc may be used with a maximum point 5” from front of bumper NO EXCEPTIONS!! All homemade bumpers must also be capped on the ends so there are no open ends.
  31. Bumper Mounting: NO BUMPER SHOCKS ANYWHERE WHATSOEVER! Y –frame Chryslers may close BOTH sides of the Y, with a patch of equal thickness material as the frame itself (top or bottom) may not go any farther than 4” past the radiator support or follow option below You may Hardnose.  Cars without bumpers must have no projecting mounts or frame projections bumperettes must be removed.  All bumper mounting must be EXTERNAL only.  Nothing can be done inside of frame!!
  32. Each bumper must be chained or 9 wired (double strand twisted) in two spots per bumper to help keep it on
  33. NO EXTRA ANYTHING ALLOWED AS THE FIRST LINE STATES ALL VEHICLES MUST REMAIN STOCK UNLESS NOTED IN THE CHANGES ABOVE