Chairperson:  Nick Bennett 570-250-5003 or nbennett10@outlook.com
Co-Chairpersons:  Sam Smith Jr. 570-463-1627 or Brad Delamater 607-237-8561

Saturday, September 5, 2020 - 6:00 PM
Entry Fee - $25.00
​The Demolition Derby is designed as an unusual spectator attraction.  Every entrant is subject to the following rules and regulations in the interest of safety and equal competition.  Total responsibility for inspection of car and rule compliance is by the owner/driver. 
Stock Compact                    MILD Compact                   80’s and Newer Full Size                    MILD Full Size     
​Classes:
​Stock Compact                    MILD Compact                   80’s and Newer Full Size                    MILD Full Size 
​Event Rules:
  1. DRIVERS ENTRY:  Entrants in the derby are not employees of the Wyoming County Fair, Inc. but are independent contractors and assume all related responsibilities. 
  2. Drivers must be at least 18 years of age and have proof of age.
  3. All drivers must supply their own car and set it up according to the rules.  Entry is limited to one (1) car per class.
  4. Drivers must wear SNELL or DOT approved helmet and some form of eye protection at all times while on the track.  If you remove either, you will be disqualified. 
  5. Drivers must wear a safety belt at all times while on the track.  If you remove the belt you will be disqualified.
  6. Conduct:  Any driver or crewmember not obeying the rules will be disqualified.  Drivers are responsible for the actions of their crewmembers.  No profane language or obscene gestures.
  7. Alcoholic Beverages:  Are prohibited in the Demolition Derby, infield and pit area.  Violation by any crew member means disqualification of a car and pit pass forfeiture!
  8. Pit Area:  A maximum speed limit of 5 MPH MUST be obeyed at all times in the pit area, parking lot and driveway (equal to a fast walk pace).
  9. Safety and Car Specifications:  Undetected or unobserved items escaping detection during inspection does not make them legal.  Any exception to the rules will be called illegal.  If it is not in the rules it does not mean you can do it.
  10. Full Size 80’s and Newer:  American made stock hard top automobiles and station wagons manufactured from the model year 1980 and newer ONLY are allowed.  No four-wheel drives will be allowed.
  11. MILD Full Size Cars:  American made stock hard top automobiles and station wagons are allowed except 1973 and older Imperials or frames, no four-wheel drives will be allowed. 
  12. Compact:  Cars (FWD or RWD) with a uni-body construction and that started life with a 4-cylinder gas engine will be allowed.  (6-cylinder uni-body front wheel drive cars with a 108” or less wheel base will also be allowed.)  Rear wheel drive 4 or 6 cylinder uni-body cars with a 102” or less wheel base will be allowed. 
  13. Inspection Area:  Inspection area is limited to driver only.  No pitmen or crew may enter the inspection area at any time.
​Class Rules:
​Stock Compact:
  1. Vehicle must remain factory other than the following modifications:  No welding other than the drivers door, bumper and cage.  No exceptions.  Special Note:  Plastic body Saturns must remove all plastic body panels, you may put sheet metal on driver’s door only.
  2. Stripping:  All glass, chrome trim, locks and anything else that might become embedded in the track must be removed.  TOTALLY CLEAN IT OUT INCLUDING GLASS.  You MUST install two safety straps from the body area behind the hood no more than 2” below the windshield line and no more than 2”” above the windshield like to the roof of the car to keep the hood from coming backwards through the windshield area.  Front WINDOW bars, straps are to be a thinner material that can easily be cut by the fire department if there is an emergency situation.  Gas tank strapping, chain or trunk rod are all good choices.  NO angle iron or t-post will be allowed.  Anything inside the car that is a fire hazard must be removed, including car interior, trunk pad and carpet.  Driver door panel can be left in for safety of the driver; projecting latches, handles, etc. inside the driver’s door must be removed.  Remove brittle metal and fiberglass pieces front and back.  A flash guard of some type MUST be installed covering the car firewall where large holes are produced after taking heaters and etc. out.  Use light tin or some type of nonflammable material.  Antifreeze must be removed and replaced with water. 
  3. Exhaust:  May use stacks or if using under car it should be cut off at least 12” behind driver’s seat and be bent out towards the side of the vehicle, or straight up and down off the manifold. 
  4. Fans:  You may use an electric fan with plastic or nylon blades only.
  5. Brakes:  Must be in working order for safety purposes on the track.
  6. Transmission Coolers:  May be moved to the rear passenger area and must be totally leak free.  All lines must be totally enclosed.  Electric plastic fans with shroud will be allowed.  A cover or splash shield between cooler and driver is recommended. 
  7. Tires and Wheels:  ANY style DOT tire is allowed (NO STEEL TIRES ALLOWED, NO RIMS ONLY).   No foam filling or loading of tires is allowed.  Tire inside a tire is allowed.  Remove all wheel weights.  No bead locking or protector style of any type rim allowed.  No valve stem protectors.  You may use the 6” wheel centers for bolt pattern changes. 
  8. Front and rear trailer hitches are to be completely removed.
  9. No rear window bar.
  10. Rust Repair:  If rust damage is to be repaired in the floors and frame, prior approval must be made before ANYTHING will be passed.  No double flooring or double framing. 
  11. Driver Protection:  This is RECOMMENDED for all classes but not required:  A 4 bar enclosure around the inside cab may be installed.  One dash bar, one behind seat, one across each front door.  All bars must be inside driver’s compartment.  Door bars may run from dash to behind the farthest back portion of the seat where it meets the kick panel.  Side bar MAXIMUM LENGTH IS 60”.  Front bar must be at least 5 inches from center of firewall and floor including the transmission tunnel.  Back bar may be no further back than 1 foot behind seat.  All bars may be no larger than 5” diameter, except side bars may use up to 6” c-channel for flat mounting.  A fifth bar may be used of same size material to run from front bar to back bar to use to support shifters and switches ONLY.  Attaching to the car may only be done on the sides, NO mounting to the floor or roof.  If you choose to use only front and back bar, mounting plates of ¼” x 6” x 12” may be used on the ends.  Light Gussets (1/8” material) may be used at all welded connections but can only be welded to the protection area.  NOT to the car body itself.  Nothing can come from floor or frame to cage whatsoever.  Used for protection only, not reinforcement.  Improperly installed bars are a hazard to everyone….NO EXOSKELETONS….All bars will be placed WITHIN the sheet metal of the vehicle. 
  12. Roll Over Bars (HALO):  May not extend more than 6” above the roof line and may only be attached to the cage with two points of contact behind front seat not to the floor in any way.  All bars must be within same guidelines as cage bars.  Nothing can go from halo to dash bar, NO EXCEPTIONS.. 
  13. Hood:  Must have a hood with a hole minimum of 12” x12” cut over the carburetor in case of fire and be tied down after inspection with wire (6) spots total.  Do not use chain or angle iron!
  14. Gas Tanks:  ALL tanks are to be removed from the vehicle’s stock location, NO EXCEPTIONS!  A marine style or equivalent fuel cell (stock gas tanks can be used if properly moved, secured, and covered and with only 5 gallons of fuel in them), tank shall be installed in the rear passenger compartment and fastened down securely.  All electric fuel pumps require a separate power switch within driver’s reach.  Switch must be labeled fuel pump shutoff.  NO PLASTIC boat tanks will be allowed.  Homemade fuel cells, MUST BE: 1. Sturdy, 2. Securely mounted, 3. Entirely leak proof or you cannot run!  Tank MUST be covered with a metal shield!  NO EXCEPTIONS!
  15. Gas Tank Protectors:  Can be used.  Protectors must be attached to CAGE ONLY!  Protector will be no larger than 3” bigger on each side of fuel tank and made of ¼” material.  8” gussets can be used on the protector.  This is a FLOATING style protector.  Bars may not go to the halo or floor and must be minimum of 4” from any sheet metal.
  16. Fuel Lines:  Must be metal passing though the firewall and in the passenger compartment.  ALL FUEL LINES MUST BE METAL LINE, OR HIGH PRESSURE RUBBER FUEL LINE INSIDE THE VEHICLE.  ALL FUEL LINES NEED TO BE COVERD, RAN INTO AN OLD GARDEN HOSE IS ACCEPTABLE. 
  17. Batteries:  Are to be mounted solidly to car floor in the front passenger compartment with a  rubber or plastic shield covering, batteries may also be mounted into passenger seat if secured, tight and covered or metal box mounted to cage. 
  18. Doors:  Driver door can be welded 3 patches per vertical seam exterior only with 3” x 3” 1/8”.  If not using a cage a length of 2” angle iron may be welded to the driver’s door no higher than the bumper and no more than 2” past either door seam.  All other doors you are to use (3) spots per vertical seam of wire, cable, chain (5/16” max), and seat belts tied are all acceptable for all doors.  If any door comes open the car is disqualified.
  19. Trunks, Hatches, Tailgates:  Even if vehicle is considered a 5 door the rear truck, hatch, or tailgate must be tied securely with cable, chain (5/16” max), seatbelt or wire ONLY (6 sports total).
  20. Engine:  Engine swaps may be done.  Homemade mounts will be allowed for motors and transmissions.  No engine cradle, distributor protectors, trans braces or slider driveshafts. 
  21. Frames:  NO FRAME ALTERING OF ANY KIND ALLOWED!  Except you may notch rear frames but cannot pre-bend.  Fix it plates on pre-ran cars may only be a maximum of 4” x 6” x ¼”.  Damage must be visible after plate is installed if it is not they must be pre-approved, or you will be disqualified.  Four may be added from heat to feature.  Maximum of 8 total on vehicles that have ran multiple shows. 
  22. Steering:  All aspects must remain stock and unaltered. 
  23. Body Mounts:  NO BODY MOUNT MODIFICATIONS ALLOWED!
  24. Body:  Wheel wells may be trimmed for clearance however re-attachment should be no stronger than factory.  Quarters and panels must remain in original position.  NO BODY CREASING, WEDGING OR CANOEING OF THE TRUNK ALLOWED IN STOCK CLASS.
  25. Suspension:  NO SUSPENSION MODIFICAITONS ALLOWED!  Must be free floating as it was from the factory. 
  26. Bumpers:  MAY ONLY USE A FACTORY AUTOMOBILE BUMPER.  We will allow them to be welded onto the frame with ¼” plate no more than EQUAL with the radiator support to secure them or you can use the original factory bumper shocks for that vehicle mounted as they were from factory.  ONE OR THE OTHER, NOT BOTH.  No stuffing of bumpers will be allowed, BUMPERS MUST HAVE INSPECTION HOLES ON ALL FOUR SIDES.  ONLY OEM bumper welding to frame.  Maximum bumper height of 20”.  On a select few compact FWD cars the frame opening is farther back than the radiator support and makes hard nosing and replacing the bumper very difficult.  On these select vehicles and these only we will allow a piece of 2” x 2” x 1/8” hollow square tubing to go from bumper to no farther than 2” inside the frame from the end for safe mounting.  These WILL be measured and scoped so please make sure your measurements are correct. 
  27. NO EXTRA ANYTHING ALLOWED AS THE FIRST LINE STATES ALL VEHICLES MUST REMAIN STOCK UNLESS NOTED IN THE CHANGES ABOVE.
  28. No. 9 Wire before the heat (except to close hood doors and trunk).  From heat to feature you may add two spots of 4 strand 9 wire.  9 wire may not go from frame to cage or halo.
  29. Any situation that come up the promoters have the power to add or change rules required.  Just because it isn’t in the rules, it doesn’t make it legal.  All vehicles are to remain factory other than the modifications allowed and spelled out in each particular section.  NOTHING MORE!  Anything found to be illegal before and after the show can result in disqualification from the event and forfeiture of any winnings.
80s and Newer Semi Stock Class:
  1. Vehicle must remain factory other than the following modifications:  No welding other than the drivers door, bumper and cage.  No exceptions.
  2. Stripping:  All glass, chrome trim, locks and anything else that might become embedded in the track must be removed.  TOTALLY CLEAN IT OUT INCLUDING GLASS.  You MUST install two safety straps from the body area behind the hood no more than 2” below the windshield line and no more than 2”” above the windshield like to the roof of the car to keep the hood from coming backwards through the windshield area.  Front WINDOW bars, straps are to be a thinner material that can easily be cut by the fire department if there is an emergency situation.  Gas tank strapping, chain or trunk rod are all good choices.  NO angle iron or t-post will be allowed.  Anything inside the car that is a fire hazard must be removed, including car interior, trunk pad and carpet.  Driver door panel can be left in for safety of the driver; projecting latches, handles, etc. inside the driver’s door must be removed.  Remove brittle metal and fiberglass pieces front and back.  A flash guard of some type MUST be installed covering the car firewall where large holes are produced after taking heaters and etc. out.  Use light tin or some type of nonflammable material.  Antifreeze must be removed and replaced with water. 
  3. Exhaust:  May use stacks or if using under car it should be cut off at least 12” behind driver’s seat and be bent out towards the side of the vehicle, or straight up and down off the manifold. 
  4. Fans:  You may use an electric fan with plastic or nylon blades only.
  5. Brakes:  Must be in working order for safety purposes on the track.
  6. Transmission Coolers:  May be moved to the rear passenger area and must be totally leak free.  All lines must be totally enclosed.  Electric plastic fans with shroud will be allowed.  A cover or splash shield between cooler and driver is recommended. 
  7. Tires and Wheels:  ANY style RUBBER tire is allowed (NO STEEL TIRES ALLOWED, NO RIMS ONLY).   No foam filling or loading of tires is allowed.  Tire inside a tire is allowed.  Remove all wheel weights.  No bead locking or protector style of any type rim allowed.  No valve stem protectors may be welded on.  You may use the 6” wheel centers for bolt pattern changes. 
  8. No Reinforcement will be allowed except as stated.  Front and rear trailer hitches are to be completely removed.
  9. No rear window bar.
  10. Rust Repair:  If rust damage is to be repaired in the floors and frame, prior approval must be made before ANYTHING will be passed.  No double flooring or double framing. 
  11. Driver Protection:  This is RECOMMENDED for all classes but not required:  A 4 bar enclosure around the inside cab may be installed.  One dash bar, one behind seat, one across each front door.  All bars must be inside driver’s compartment.  Door bars may run from dash to behind the farthest back portion of the seat where it meets the kick panel.  Side bar MAXIMUM LENGTH IS 60”.  Front bar must be at least 5 inches from center of firewall and floor including the transmission tunnel.  Back bar may be no further back than 1 foot behind seat.  All bars may be no larger than 5” diameter, except side bars may use up to 6” c-channel for flat mounting.  A fifth bar may be used of same size material to run from front bar to back bar to use to support shifters and switches ONLY.  Attaching to the car may only be done on the sides, NO mounting to the floor or roof.  If you choose to use only front and back bar, mounting plates of ¼” x 6” x 12” may be used on the ends.  Light Gussets (1/8” material) may be used at all welded connections but can only be welded to the protection area.  NOT to the car body itself.  Nothing can come from floor or frame to cage whatsoever.  Used for protection only, not reinforcement.  Improperly installed bars are a hazard to everyone….NO EXOSKELETONS….All bars will be placed WITHIN the sheet metal of the vehicle. 
  12. Roll Over Bars (HALO):  May not extend more than 6” above the roof line and may only be attached to the cage with two points of contact behind front seat not to the floor in any way.  All bars must be within same guidelines as cage bars.  Nothing can go from halo to dash bar, NO EXCEPTIONS.. 
  13. Hood:  Must have a stock hood with hole cut over carb in case of fire and must be tied down after inspection.  You may  use wire or 2” x 2” angle iron max 4” long.  Three (3) spots per side MAX.  6 spots total.  Must have a minimum of 12” x 12” hole over carb.  Hood must be open for inspection. 
  14. Shifters:  Any style may be used.
  15. Pedals:  Aftermarket pedals may be used.
  16. Gas Tanks:  ALL tanks are to be removed from the vehicle’s stock location, NO EXCEPTIONS!  A marine style or equivalent fuel cell (stock gas tanks can be used if properly moved, secured, and covered and with only 5 gallons of fuel in them), tank shall be installed in the rear passenger compartment and fastened down securely.  All electric fuel pumps require a separate power switch within driver’s reach.  Switch must be labeled fuel pump shutoff.  NO PLASTIC boat tanks will be allowed.  Homemade fuel cells, MUST BE: 1. Sturdy, 2. Securely mounted, 3. Entirely leak proof or you cannot run!  Tank MUST be covered with a metal shield!  NO EXCEPTIONS!
  17. Gas Tank Protectors:  Can be used.  Protectors must be attached to CAGE ONLY!  Protector will be no larger than 3” bigger on each side of fuel tank and made of ¼” material.  8” gussets can be used on the protector.  This is a FLOATING style protector.  Bars may not go to the halo or floor and must be minimum of 5” from any sheet metal.
  18. Fuel Lines:  Must be metal passing though the firewall and in the passenger compartment.  ALL FUEL LINES MUST BE METAL LINE, OR HIGH PRESSURE RUBBER FUEL LINE INSIDE THE VEHICLE.  ALL FUEL LINES NEED TO BE COVERD, RAN INTO AN OLD GARDEN HOSE IS ACCEPTABLE. 
  19. Batteries:  Are to be mounted solidly to car floor in the front passenger compartment with a  rubber or plastic shield covering, batteries may also be mounted into passenger seat if secured, tight and covered or metal box mounted to cage. 
  20. Steering:  Any style column may be used.  You may weld your tie rod sleeves to the tie rod.  NO ADDED MATERIAL!!
  21. Doors:  Must be tied securely.  Cay use 5/16” chain, wire or three 3” x 3” x 1/8” patches on each vertical exterior seam may be welded.  If the driver’s door comes open, you are disqualified. 
  22. Trunks:  Muse use wire or chain.  No tuck, wedge or canoe.  Must keep original shape.
  23. Frames:  NO TILTING OR PREBENDING.  You may shorten in front of rad support ONLY but may not move rad support.  NO WELDING ON FRAME WHATSOEVER (except for bumper mounting).  You can notch, or dimple rear frame.  Notch cannot be welded.  No undercoating or painting of frames.  You cannot chain the humps.
  24. Fit It Plates:  On pre-ran cars may only be a maximum of 4” x 6” x 1/4”.  Damage must be visible after plate is installed if it is not they must be pre-approved, or you will be disqualified.  You may add 4 from heat to feature maximum of 8 total on cars that have ran multiple shows.  
  25. Body Mounts:  Only 4 extra ½” maximum with washers that are free floating maximum size is 3/16” by 5”.  All other body mounts and tabs must remain in the factory position.  Body spacers may remain factory (if they do no altering to spacer or internal sleeve) or you can replace with hockey pucks must have a minimum of 1” space between body and frame.  The very front spacer ONLY may be replaced with a steel spacer up to 2” hollow round or 2” x 2” hollow square material maximum of 4” long.  NO PLATES!
  26. Body:  Wheel wells may be trimmed for clearance however re-attachment should be no stronger than factory.  You may use up to five 5/16” bolts per side to re-attach.  Quarters and panels must remain in original position.  NO CREASING, CANOEING OR WEDGING!
  27. Engine and Transmission:  Swaps between manufacturers is okay.  Factory lower engine mount must be used.  Mount must be bolted or welded to K member.  Lower cradle is allowed with a maximum thickness of 5/8”.  Factory trans cross-member must be used.  You may use 4” long piece on 3” x 3” angle iron welded to frame on each side to move and bolt trans cross-member farther back when doing an engine/trans swap.  This can be no farther than 12” from the factory mount and cross-member must be bolted not welded to tabs.  You also must use a factory style transmission mount from trans to cross-member.  Cross-member may be altered at mounting point to allow other manufacturer trans to attach in factory manner.  NO PULLEY PROTECTOR, NO DP, NO MID PLATE, NO CARB PROTECTOR, NO BRACES, NO SLIDERS, NO STEEL BELL AND NO STEEL TAIL.
  28. Suspension:  You may lock suspension for ride height purposes.  You may use up to 1” all thread in place of shocks in rear but it must be in the factory shock location (going up and down – not x across).  Or you may also use chain to lock ride height 5/16” maximum and it may not be welded to the frame nor can it go side to side.  You may swap rear ends.  Rears must be out of a car (no 8 lug).  If car is originally leaf sprung, you may use 2 extra clamps per side 2” wide 3/16” thick tow 3/8” bolts each.  Front sway bar may be removed, or you can remove rubber bushings and bolt solid to both frame and control arms, but it may NOT be welded to engine cradle or frame.  No suspension conversions (this includes watts link cars).  Control and trailing arms (front and rear) must remain ULALTERED FACTORY components for that vehicle.  You may lock front suspension with torsion adjustment (if applicable), 2 pieces of 2” x 2” x ¼” (per side) welded from control arm to frame or chain going over top of a-arm welded to frame (5/16” max.)  Can only be welded by 2 links on frame each end.   
  29. Bumpers:  Maximum height is 20” to bottom of bumper.  You may use factory automobile bumper.  You may load bumper but all work must be done on the inside of the bumper only and it must appear stock.  You may seam weld and may use a ¼” plate to back of bumper to support or stiffen.  Homemade bumpers will be allowed built from FLAT HOLLOW type steel ¼” thick x 4” deep x 8” high.  No wider than vehicle width.  Base bumper must be open on the ends.  No points or sharp edges.  You may stack two pieces together from top to bottom to make height dimensional.  NO EXCEPTIONS.
  30. Bumper Mounting:  Bumper may be welded to stock mount brackets for that particular vehicle, NO EXCEPTIONS and stock brackets welded only to prevent collapse.  Brackets must be attached to frame with the factory mounting method OR you may weld bumper directly to frame with ¼” material boxed as far as 4” behind rad support, however if you choose that method all other mounts and brackets must be removed.  No homemade shocks, no extending of factory shocks, or brackets.  NO PLATING!!  Cars without bumpers must have no projecting mounts or frame projections, bumperettes must be removed.  Bumper brackets and mount welding must not run over 4” behind rad support.  All bumper mounting must be EXTERNAL only.  Nothing can be done inside of frame!!
  31. NO EXTRA ANYTHING ALLOWED AS THE FIRST LINE STATES ALL VEHICLES MUST REMAIN STOCK UNLESS NOTED IN THE CHANGES ABOVE.
  32. No. 9 Wire before the heat (except to close hood doors and trunk).  From heat to feature you may add two spots of 4 strand 9 wire.  9 wire may not go from frame to cage or halo.
  33. Any situation that come up the promoters have the power to add or change rules required.  Just because it isn’t in the rules, it doesn’t make it legal.  All vehicles are to remain factory other than the modifications allowed and spelled out in each particular section.  NOTHING MORE!  Anything found to be illegal before and after the show can result in disqualification from the event and forfeiture of any winnings.
MILD Class - Fullsize/Compact:
  1. Vehicle must remain factory other than the following modifications.  Special Note:  Plastic body Saturns must remove all plastic body panels, you may put sheet metal on driver’s door only.
  2. Any style aftermarket shifter, steering column or pedal combo may be used.
  3. Stripping:  All glass, chrome trim, locks and anything else that might become embedded in the track must be removed.  TOTALLY CLEAN IT OUT INCLUDING GLASS.  You MUST install two safety straps from the body area behind the hood no more than 2” below the windshield line and no more than 2”” above the windshield like to the roof of the car to keep the hood from coming backwards through the windshield area.  Front WINDOW bars, straps are to be a thinner material that can easily be cut by the fire department if there is an emergency situation.  Gas tank strapping, chain or trunk rod are all good choices.  NO angle iron or t-post will be allowed.  Anything inside the car that is a fire hazard must be removed, including car interior, trunk pad and carpet.  Driver door panel can be left in for safety of the driver; projecting latches, handles, etc. inside the driver’s door must be removed.  Remove brittle metal and fiberglass pieces front and back.  A flash guard of some type MUST be installed covering the car firewall where large holes are produced after taking heaters and etc. out.  Use light tin or some type of nonflammable material.  Antifreeze must be removed and replaced with water. 
  4. Exhaust:  May use stacks or if using under car it should be cut off at least 12” behind driver’s seat and be bent out towards the side of the vehicle, or straight up and down off the manifold. 
  5. Fans:  You may use an electric fan with plastic or nylon blades only.
  6. Brakes:  Must be in working order for safety purposes on the track.  No pinion brakes!!
  7. Transmission Coolers:  May be moved to the rear passenger area and must be totally leak free.  All lines must be totally enclosed.  Electric plastic fans with shroud will be allowed.  A cover or splash shield between cooler and driver is recommended. 
  8. Tires and Wheels:  ANY style RUBBER tire is allowed (NO STEEL TIRES ALLOWED, NO RIMS ONLY).   No foam filling or loading of tires is allowed.  Tire inside a tire is allowed.  Remove all wheel weights.  No bead locking or protector style of any type rim allowed.  No valve stem protectors may be welded on..  You may use 6” wheel center. 
  9. No Reinforcement will be allowed except as stated.  Front and rear trailer hitches are to be completely removed.
  10. No rear window bar or chains.
  11. Rust Repair:  If rust damage is to be repaired in the floors and frame, prior approval must be made before ANYTHING will be passed.  No double flooring or double framing. 
  12. Driver Protection:  This is RECOMMENDED for all classes but not required:  A 4 bar enclosure around the inside cab may be installed.  One dash bar, one behind seat, one across each front door.  All bars must be inside driver’s compartment.  Door bars may run from dash to behind the farthest back portion of the seat where it meets the kick panel.  Side bar MAXIMUM LENGTH IS 60”.  Front bar must be at least 5 inches from center of firewall and floor including the transmission tunnel.  Back bar may be no further back than 1 foot behind seat.  All bars may be no larger than 5” diameter, except side bars may use up to 6” c-channel for flat mounting.  A fifth bar may be used of same size material to run from front bar to back bar to use to support shifters and switches ONLY.  Attaching to the car may only be done on the sides, NO mounting to the floor or roof.  If you choose to use only front and back bar, mounting plates of ¼” x 6” x 12” may be used on the ends.  Light Gussets (1/8” material) may be used at all welded connections but can only be welded to the protection area.  NOT to the car body itself.  Nothing can come from floor or frame to cage whatsoever.  Used for protection only, not reinforcement.  Improperly installed bars are a hazard to everyone….NO EXOSKELETONS….All bars will be placed WITHIN the sheet metal of the vehicle. 
  13. Roll Over Bars (HALO):  May not extend more than 6” above the roof line and may only be attached to the cage with two points of contact behind front seat not to the floor in any way.  All bars must be within same guidelines as cage bars.  Nothing can go from halo to dash bar, NO EXCEPTIONS.. 
  14. Hood:  You may use wire or 2” x 2” angle iron, 8 spots total.  If using angle iron it can be max 4” long to hold hood down.  If using angle iron the opening must be at least 2’ x 2’ to allow us to extinguish any fire.  Other methods may have a minimum of 12” x 12” holed over carb.  If using all thread as a radiator support bolt it may come through the hood in the two front spots (3/4” or less) only!  Hood must be opened for inspection, it is not our job!
  15. Doors:  Must be welded and or tied securely with cable or chain.  ALL exterior door seams may be welded.  Interior front door vertical seams may be welded.  You are allowed to use flat steel over the seams up to 3” x 18”.  If ANY door comes open car is disqualified.   
  16. Gas Tanks:  ALL tanks are to be removed from the vehicle’s stock location, NO EXCEPTIONS!  A marine style or equivalent fuel cell (stock gas tanks can be used if properly moved, secured, and covered and with only 5 gallons of fuel in them), tank shall be installed in the rear passenger compartment and fastened down securely.  All electric fuel pumps require a separate power switch within driver’s reach.  Switch must be labeled fuel pump shutoff.  NO PLASTIC boat tanks will be allowed.  Homemade fuel cells, MUST BE: 1. Sturdy, 2. Securely mounted, 3. Entirely leak proof or you cannot run!  Tank MUST be covered with a metal shield!  NO EXCEPTIONS!
  17. Gas Tank Protectors:  Can be used.  Protectors must be attached to CAGE ONLY!  Protector will be no larger than 3” bigger on each side of fuel tank and made of ¼” material.  8” gussets can be used on the protector.  This is a FLOATING style protector.  Bars may not go to the halo or floor and must be minimum of 5” from any sheet metal.
  18. Fuel Lines:  Must be metal passing though the firewall and in the passenger compartment.  ALL FUEL LINES MUST BE METAL LINE, OR HIGH PRESSURE RUBBER FUEL LINE INSIDE THE VEHICLE.  ALL FUEL LINES NEED TO BE COVERD, RAN INTO AN OLD GARDEN HOSE IS ACCEPTABLE. 
  19. Batteries:  Are to be mounted solidly to car floor in the front passenger compartment with a  rubber or plastic shield covering, batteries may also be mounted into passenger seat if secured, tight and covered or metal box mounted to cage. 
  20. Compact:  If using the original gas tank, they are to be moved to the rear seat area of the car (if using the tank), fastened down securely with straps and have a firewall in place.  Use only 5 gallons of gas.  Install toggle switch on the fuel pump wire so in case of a fire the pump can be shut down.  Switch is to be labeled so emergency personal can identify it.  Homemade fuel cells must be 1. Sturdy, 2. Securely mounted, 3. Entirely leak proof or you cannot run.  Fuel lines within passenger compartment must be metal and covered. 
  21. Engine:  Engine swaps may be done.  You may use lower engine cradle (3/4” maximum thickness).  Trans cross-member may be altered to allow other make engines and transmisions to be installed.  You may use a 4” long piece of 3” x 3” angle iron welded to frame on each side no more than 12” from factory location as the cross-member mount.  You may use homemade cross-member no larger than 2” x 2” hollow round or square material.  Slider drive shafts and transmission braces are allowed. 
  22. Frames:  Tilting frames and pre-bending will not be allowed.  NO ADDED MATERIAL.  Frame changes allowed make to make only (i.e. Chrysler to Chrysler, etc)  NO imperial frames, no aftermarket K members or cross members.  Must be OE and within manufacturer.  Front frame may be shortened however core support must remain in stock location.  No shortening between firewall and radiator support.  Factory frame seams may be re-welded single pass firewall forward, NO added metal.  Do not fill holes or make new seams.  You may notch or dimple rear section of frame, notch must NOT be welded together.  Also, no undercoating or painting frames.  No sub frame connectors.  NO welding on the inside of the frame whatsoever.  NO plating, pinning, or stuffing allowed.  NO kickers. 
  23. Fit It Plates:  On pre-ran cars may only be a maximum of 4” x 6” x 1/4”.  Damage must be visible after plate is installed if it is not they must be pre-approved, or you will be disqualified.  You may add 4 from heat to feature maximum of 8 total on cars that have ran multiple shows. 
  24. Suspension:  Rear coil springs and attachments may be replaced with leaf springs.  No welding on spring pack.  If doing leaf conversion, you must remove all components of the original suspension (control arms, coil springs, etc.)  You may use one or the other, not both.  Maximum 2 clamps per side, 2” wide x 3/16” thick, two 3/8” bolts per clamp.  ¼” working rear shackles, frame mount ¼” maximum by 4” x 6”.  Leaf springs (4) 3/8” or up to (7) ¼” thick springs 2 ½ inch wide, (no reverse arch) flat sprung ok.  You may swap rears between manufacturers must be passenger car or truck.  No more than 6 lugs.  No rear braces allowed.  Front Sway bar-may be removed, or you can remove rubber bushings and bolt or weld solid to both frame and control arms, but it may NOT be welded or bolted to engine. 
  25. Hump Plates:  24” of plate allowed ¼ inch thick maximum material and can be no wider than the width of the frame, HUMP PLATES ARE FOR THE REAR OF A VEHICLE ONLY AND MUST BE CENTERED OVER AXLE.
  26. Ride Height:  You may lock suspension and/or pipe shocks to achieve proper ride height doing this may not strengthen frame in any way.  If using threaded rode to do so it must be used in the stock shock location only and 1” maximum diameter. 
  27. Steering:  Any style column may be used.  You may weld your tie rod sleeves to the tie rode or use small angle to weld tie rod to sleeve.  You may also use aftermarket tie rods.
  28. Body Mounts:  All body mounts must remain in factory position. 
  29. Body:  Wheel wells may be trimmed for clearance however re-attachment should be no stronger than factory.  You may use 5 bolts per side (3/8” or smaller) to go from outer quarter around wheel opening to inner wheel well.  Quarters and panels must remain in original position NO wedging you may body crease.  No canoeing.  Interior body seams may be re-welded 2” on 4” off.  DO NOT make new seams.
  30. Trunks, Hatches, Truck:  May be tucked but not welded to floor.  May be patch welded or use wire/chain, if welded a 10 x 10 inspection hole is needed for inspection.  Patches 3” x 3” x 1/8” thickness 3” on 6” off.    
  31. Bumpers:  Maximum bumper height of 20” to bottom of bumper.  You may use any factory automobile bumper.  You may also load bumpers (all work must be done on the inside and it MUST APPEAR FACTORY FROM OUTSIDE.  You may seam weld if you are using a light duty or pre-ran bumper and you may use a ¼” plate on back of bumper to support or stiffen.  Homemade bumpers will be allowed, built from FLAT HOLLOW type steel ¼” thick x 4” deep x 8” high no wider than vehicle width.  No points.  You may stack 2 pieces together from top to bottom to make height dimensional.  All homemade bumpers must also be open on the ends. 
  32. Bumper Mounting:  NO BUMPER SHOCKS.  Y-frame Chryslers may close BOTH sides of the Y, with a patch of equal thickness material as the frame itself (top or bottom) may not go any farther than 4” past the radiator support.  Option 1:  You may weld bumper directly to frame.  You may box frame from bumper to up to 4” past rad support with ¼” x 3” material.  Option 2:  For bumper mounting is your may weld bumper directly to frame and use a piece of steel (3” wide x ¼” thick x 12” long).  You may choose which side of the frame you put in on, inside or outside directly to frame, but it may not exceed 12” from bumper.  Cars without bumpers must have no projecting mounts or frame projections bumperettes must be removed.  All bumper mounting must  be EXTERNAL only.  Nothing can be done inside of frame!
  33. NO EXTRA ANYTHING ALLOWED AS THE FIRST LINE STATES ALL VEHICLES MUST REMAIN STOCK UNLESS NOTED IN THE CHANGES ABOVE.
  34. No. 9 Wire before the heat (except to close hood doors and trunk).  From heat to feature you may add two spots of 4 strand 9 wire.  9 wire may not go from frame to cage or halo.
  35. Any situation that come up the promoters have the power to add or change rules required.  Just because it isn’t in the rules, it doesn’t make it legal.  All vehicles are to remain factory other than the modifications allowed and spelled out in each particular section.  NOTHING MORE!  Anything found to be illegal before and after the show can result in disqualification from the event and forfeiture of any winnings.